Naghahanap ako sa net ng conversion ng tail light ng CB110 from stock bulb to LED. Since mahilig naman ako mangalikot puwede kong gawin ito during my day off.
Madami-dami na rin akong nahanap pero siguro ito ang the best guide na nahanap ko.
Please click here to see the original post.
Ito yung diagram niya:
Parts/Material Required –
1 Perforated PCB prototype board (Size depends on your tail light, for me 10 cm x 10 cm was enough)
LEDs -
Red LEDs (Number of LEDs depends on your configuration. I used 46 in my setup),
3 x 1w white LEDs for number plate illumination,
Resistors -
11 x 100 ohm 1/4w,
1 x 100 ohm 1w,
1 x 50 ohm 1/4w,
2 x 250 ohm 1/4w
Diodes-
2 x 1N4001 (If this is not available you can go for 1N4007 as well)
Small Pieces of Wires (Preferably of different colors), 1 Old Tail Lamp Bulb, 3 mm Heat Shrink Tube or Insulation Tape, Hot Melt Glue, (I think M-seal can also be used in this place), Fevicol, Feviquick, Mount board.
Tools Required -
Soldering Iron & wire, Wire Cutter, Hack Saw, File, Scissors, Cutter, Nose Pliers, Lighter (If you are using heat shrink tubes), Glue Gun or Stove (If you are using hot melt glue), 3V & 9V/12 volt battery for testing (You can connect small AA batteries together to make 9V/12V or you can use laptop charger for testing).
Methodology: There are two ways of making the LED running lamp + brake light. Either you can have 2 different sets of LEDs for running light & brake light or you can have all the LEDs (same set) for running light as well as brake light. In the first option you have to make 2 different circuits, connect one to the running lights & other to the brake lights. You will not need diodes & some of the resistors in this type of set up. I have used the same set of LED’s for running light and brake light.
Whichever setup you employ, I would recommend connecting at least 3 and max 4 LEDs in series. These strings of 4 LEDs in series can then be connected in parallel to form the complete circuit. Please refer to the circuit diagram given below. I have total 46 red LEDs; the result is satisfactory (But not too bright). If you want higher intensity then you will have to pack about 90 red LEDs, 46 may not be enough. This is because our tail lamp has diffused lens and our setup does not contain any LED reflector as well. Alternatively, you can find the clear tail lamp lens & find out some LED reflector or fit LEDs in the bezel which will improve the intensity a lot and you may not need to increase number of LEDs. I think the stock tail light reflector from the Hero Hunk can be installed in FZ16, of course with few modifications. (I have not tested this, only kept as an option for version 2 setup)
Para sa step by step instruction kung paano niya ginawa, paki click na lang yung link. Pinost ko lang ito dito para reference ko at baka ma-delete yung post niya.
Again, credit goes to the original poster GauravB728 of xBhp.
Madami-dami na rin akong nahanap pero siguro ito ang the best guide na nahanap ko.
Please click here to see the original post.
Ito yung diagram niya:
Parts/Material Required –
1 Perforated PCB prototype board (Size depends on your tail light, for me 10 cm x 10 cm was enough)
LEDs -
Red LEDs (Number of LEDs depends on your configuration. I used 46 in my setup),
3 x 1w white LEDs for number plate illumination,
Resistors -
11 x 100 ohm 1/4w,
1 x 100 ohm 1w,
1 x 50 ohm 1/4w,
2 x 250 ohm 1/4w
Diodes-
2 x 1N4001 (If this is not available you can go for 1N4007 as well)
Small Pieces of Wires (Preferably of different colors), 1 Old Tail Lamp Bulb, 3 mm Heat Shrink Tube or Insulation Tape, Hot Melt Glue, (I think M-seal can also be used in this place), Fevicol, Feviquick, Mount board.
Tools Required -
Soldering Iron & wire, Wire Cutter, Hack Saw, File, Scissors, Cutter, Nose Pliers, Lighter (If you are using heat shrink tubes), Glue Gun or Stove (If you are using hot melt glue), 3V & 9V/12 volt battery for testing (You can connect small AA batteries together to make 9V/12V or you can use laptop charger for testing).
Methodology: There are two ways of making the LED running lamp + brake light. Either you can have 2 different sets of LEDs for running light & brake light or you can have all the LEDs (same set) for running light as well as brake light. In the first option you have to make 2 different circuits, connect one to the running lights & other to the brake lights. You will not need diodes & some of the resistors in this type of set up. I have used the same set of LED’s for running light and brake light.
Whichever setup you employ, I would recommend connecting at least 3 and max 4 LEDs in series. These strings of 4 LEDs in series can then be connected in parallel to form the complete circuit. Please refer to the circuit diagram given below. I have total 46 red LEDs; the result is satisfactory (But not too bright). If you want higher intensity then you will have to pack about 90 red LEDs, 46 may not be enough. This is because our tail lamp has diffused lens and our setup does not contain any LED reflector as well. Alternatively, you can find the clear tail lamp lens & find out some LED reflector or fit LEDs in the bezel which will improve the intensity a lot and you may not need to increase number of LEDs. I think the stock tail light reflector from the Hero Hunk can be installed in FZ16, of course with few modifications. (I have not tested this, only kept as an option for version 2 setup)
Para sa step by step instruction kung paano niya ginawa, paki click na lang yung link. Pinost ko lang ito dito para reference ko at baka ma-delete yung post niya.
Again, credit goes to the original poster GauravB728 of xBhp.
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