Showing posts with label Electrical. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Electrical. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

VOLTAGE STABILIZER


Here is the instruction of how to make a voltage stabilizer for our cars. Although it has many names such as hypervoltage system, ground or volt stabilizer, they are all the same. Their prices range from $60-$220, but you can do it yourself for less than $40. . Personally, I don't know exactly what is inside the box. So what I describe below is based on my knowledge as an electrical engineer.
The voltage stabilizer is used as a filter and a secondary voltage storage for your car. Although the battery itself acts as a large capacitor, it doesn't respond to all current fluxuation in your car. Voltage stabilizer help supplying or absorbing transient current so that electrical inteference is suppressed and more energy from the alternator is stored.
As a result, the engine will run smoother and quiter. Its throttle response will improve. You also get more miles from your gas.
It consists of capacitors connected in parallel. High capacitor value should be use to maximize the filtering effect. Both electrolyict and ceramic capacitors should be use to cover broad frequency range. For battery protection, I add a 3-5A fuse. You can dress it up with some LED lights, but it will just drain up your battery a bit.
Here is the part list:
1. 3-foot 4 or 8AWG wire and 2 ring terminals
2. Plastic enclosure
3. 4 16V Electrolytic capacitors (10,000uF)
4. 4 16V Ceramic capacitors (100uF)
5. a fuse and a fuse holder
6. 2-side sticky tape
7. pre-drilled PCB board

First, Cut the wire and connect each wire with a ring terminal. Then drill 2 holes on the plastic box. Align capacitors in parallel on the PCB board and solder them. Be aware that the electrolytic capacitors have polarity. You should connect all the capacitor's negative terminals to the same point of the PCB board and similary for the positive terminal as shown in the schematic.

Then connect one of the fuse holder port to the positive terminal of the capacitors. Insert the positive wire though the box and solder it the PCB board at the other end of the fuse holder. Afterthat, insert the negative wire though the box and solder it the PCB board. Close the box's lid and your voltage stabilizer will look some thing like this:

Installation: Just connect its + terminal to the + battery terminal and then connect - terminal to the - battery terminal. You will see some spark :twisted: . It would be best to charge the unit with a power supply before you hook it up to the battery. I stick my voltage stabilizer on top of the fuse box using a piece of sticky tape. The ECU needs about 1-2 days to adjust itself once you install the your voltage stabilizer, but you should see some improvement immediately.

The system should last for at least 3-5 years.

Here is the diagram:

DIY 12 LEDS TAILLIGHT AND BRAKELIGHT


Parts:
R1______________10K 1/4WResistor
R2______________33R 1/4W Resistor (See Notes)
R3______________15R 1/4W Resistor (See Notes)
D1___________1N5819 40V 1A Schottky-barrier Diode (See Notes)
D2--D13________LEDs High brightness, high efficiency red types (See Notes)
Q1____________BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistor
Q2____________BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistor
SW1____________SPST Tail Light Switch
SW2____________SPST Brake Light Switch

Notes:
This circuit was designed on request to drive a Light-cluster formed by several LEDs that can be mounted in the vehicle as a tail and brake light.
When SW1 is on, the cluster will illuminate at medium brightness. When brakes are operated, SW2 will be closed and the cluster will shine at maximum brightness.
These two brightness levels of the cluster are obtained by a constant current source drive formed by Q1 and Q2. The two constant current levels are set by R2 and R3 values.

The cluster can be formed by up to 12 LEDs as shown in the circuit diagram. Common cluster types usually range from 5 to 10 LEDs.Using the values shown above, stand-by current was 1mA; SW1 on = 20mA, SW2 on = 60mA.Constant output current value can be changed by varying R2 and/or R3.
The formula is: R = 0.6/I (in Amperes).Please note that the brake current is obtained by paralleling R2 and R3 values.Use high brightness, high efficiency red LED types of suitable size and change R2 and R3 values to suit LED's Absolute Maximum Ratings.Any Schottky-barrier type diode can be used in place of the 1N5819: the BAT46 type will be a very good choice.

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Some common diagram for your accessories

This was a compilation of different diagram for different motorcycle accessories.
Credits goes to the one who create the diagram

HAZARD LIGHT

BATTERY INDICATOR
HID SINGLE BEAM INSTALLATION
DUAL HORN INSTALLATION


Monday, February 6, 2012

Honda Motorcycle Wire Color Coding

as posted by Genezide13 of MCP 


1. head lights - light blue - high 
- white - low = both coming from the dimmer 

2. signal lights - orange - left 
- light blue - right(sometimes may sub-color po violet) 

3. horn - light green(yan po yung live) 

4. ignition switch - black - accesories 
- black/white - kill switch 
- red - positive(-) 
- green - negative(-) 

5. foot brake/stop light - yellow/green 

6. ignition coil(out from C.D.I.) - yellow/black 

7. starter relay - yellow/red 

8. flasher relay - gray(gamit sa signal) 

9. C.D.I.- black/red - (from stator) 
- yellow/black - (out=live) 
- black/white - (kill switch) 
- blue/white - (pulser) 
- green - (negative (-).) 

10. rectifier - white - charging 
- yellow - lighting 
- red (+) 
- green (-) 

11. stator coil - black/red - live 
- yellow - lighting 
- white - charging 
- blue - blue/white = pulser 

12.tail light or park light - brown 

13. push stater button - yellow/red (yan po yung linya papuntang starter relay) 


important colors you need to memorized to trouble shoot your MC... 
 
black/red = stator to CDI 

yellow/black = from CDI to ignition coil 

black/white = kill switch 

blue/white = pulser